BrakePedal MOD Single or Extended [Thrustmaster T-LCM] (PC, PS4, PS5, XBox) Rated 5.00 out of 5 based on 2 customer ratings. ( 2 customer reviews) € 12,90 – € 29,90. This MOD increases the realism and performance of the load cell on the Thrustmaster T

supports most steering wheels and controllers, as long as they are PC-compatible. Here’s a list of some devices that have been tested Controller Support . comes pre-configured for several controllers - those will work as without further configuration, provided their drivers have been installed correctly. For the rest of devices, you will have to assign controls. In all cases, you might want to fine tune the controls to your preference. This page will help you with those two cases. If you are running into problems when setting up your device, take a look at the Common Problems and Solutions page too. Installing drivers for Windows Always install the latest drivers for your device. If you don’t, some functions may work incorrectly, or not work at all. If you are not sure how to install or update its drivers, check the manual that came with it, or contact its manufacturer for support. Out of date drivers can cause Some buttons not working Throttle and brake pedal conflicting with each other Force feedback working incorrectly Some buttons not working H-shifter not working Clutch pedal not detected Steering wheel doesn’t work all the way to 900 degrees Etc. Recommended driver configuration Once the drivers are installed, it’s best to check their settings. The general guideline is to apply as few filters as possible, so that the simulator receives clear inputs, and can output forces as transparently as possible. First, go to Windows Control Panel, and locate the USB/game controllers option Double click your steering wheel to enter its Driver configuration panel. From there you should find various settings for your device. Some Drivers will choose different settings depending on which game you are running. The Drivers may call game profiles’ or similar terms if in doubt, check its manual. Make sure you are modifying the appropriate profile! Drivers Input configuration There’s a few things you need to set up in the Drivers. The location and name of these options will vary from one steering wheel to another. Check the device manual if in doubt. Configure the wheel for maximum wheel rotation range. In many wheels this is 900º, in others 1080º, etc. Use the maximum possible. Use independent throttle and brake pedals. This is often called “enable split pedals” enable it, or “use combined axes” disable it. Drivers Force feedback configuration A few main settings to keep in mind Make sure FFB is enabled. Try to disable any permanent centering spring effect. If not possible, set it to 0%. Try to disable any permanent damping effect. If not possible, set it to 0%. uses the constant force’ effect for all types of feedback. Even rumble strips, racetrack kerbs or road bumps are reproduced organically their raw feeling comes straight from the physics engine, thanks to its high frequency of 2000 Hz. The main thing you need to set up in the drivers is how much force you want to feel in your hands in a worst case scenario, such as a car crash In many steering wheels, choosing 100% of force might be okay even during a car crash. Start with lower values if in doubt though. In powerful steering wheels, choosing 100% can be dangerous for your fingers and wrists. If, at your own risk, you choose 100% anyway, you will need to adopt the same safety measures you would in real life letting go of the wheel before a crash occurs, always positioning your fingers outside the steering wheel rim, etc. See in-game configuration for more info. will use all the capabilities of your steering wheel. If, for example, you don’t want to receive 20 newton-meter of force on your hands, then you need to configure your drivers to output a lower amount. We recommend starting at just 1 or 2 newton-meter. Hardware check 1 Windows drivers The steering wheel Driver configuration can normally display which buttons and axes are being pushed. Use each of the buttons and axes, one by one, and make sure they respond correctly on your screen. Here you should check Does the button or axis display respond every time you press? Does the button or axis display move all the way from zero to the maximum possible value? Does the button or axis display fluctuate or flicker a lot when you are not touching anything? Does the button or axis move only one of the items on your screen, or several? If anything seems wrong, check your steering wheel manual, make sure its drivers are installed correctly may require rebooting your computer, search the web for people suffering similar issues, or contact the manufacturer of the wheel to ask about your issue. Hardware check 2 Open Options > Controls > Hardware. Then use all the buttons and axes, make sure they respond correctly on screen too, just like with hardware check 1. If anything is different in this menu than in the driver configuration panel, please check that Steam Big Picture is not interfering . If that has failed too, contact us. Assigning Controls You need to have installed the Drivers, otherwise it may be impossible to assign the controls correctly. In the case of a few devices, already has a reasonable configuration by default. Those will only work if you have installed the Drivers. Clicking Reset All’ will revert back to the default bindings if they exist; otherwise it will remove any bindings you may have created. Go to Options > Controls > Bindings > Vehicle. The bindings look someting like this If no binding exists for your device, you will need to assign them using the +’ buttons on the right side. The most important bindings are Throttle, Brake and Steering. You can also fully customize your H-shifter or sequential paddles, your parking brake, etc. Steering binding One of the most important bindings for your steering wheel is the Steering’ binding, as you probably guessed. This is roughly what that binding might look like, but it will vary from one wheel to another Filter choose Wheel direct’ if you are using a steering wheel, as it provides instant responses without any additional input lag. If you are not using a steering wheel gamepads, keyboards, this setting can trade responsiveness in exchange for smoothness. Steering Lock Type 1N will map the max steering lock of your USB wheel, to the max lock of the car you’re currently driving. The virtual wheel will only mimic your USB wheel if both happen to have the exact same steering lock. 11 will match the virtual wheel to your USB wheel. If your USB wheel cannot steer as much as the current car, then you’ll lose maneouvering capabilities such as when driving certain trucks 11 hybrid will match the virtual wheel during the first half of your USB steering angle. And on the second half, it might start accelerating into 1N for any vehicle where your USB wheel would run out of steering lock too soon such as certain trucks. On the rest of cases it will continue matching the angles normally. This ensures you never lose any maneouvering capabilities. Steering Lock Angle this is only used when choosing 11’ or 11 hybrid’ Steering Lock Type. This should reflect how much angle your USB steering wheel can provide from its leftmost position, to its rightmost position. For many Logitech steering wheels, this will be 900 degrees. Note if you have configured your Drivers to a smaller steering lock, then you must use the same value in For example, if you have configured your 900° steering wheel to operate with only 500°, then you should also set to 500°. Inverted Axis some devices output inverted values. Check the graph right above this setting, and move your wheel left and right. If the orange point in the graph is moving the wrong way, then you’ll have to toggle this checkbox. Linearity choose 1 for most steering wheels. You may choose a different for gamepads, joysticks, and low-end steering wheels. Deadzone rest choose 0 for steering wheels. You might need a bit of deadzone for some gamepads, joysticks, and pedals frequent in devices that are old and worn out, but also in most new gamepads too. Deadzone end choose 0 for steering wheels. You may need some deadzone if you’re unable to reach the full travel of your pedal/joystick/gamepad. Force feedback configuration Basic set up Go to the Options > Controls > Force Feedback > Available Hardware section. If has detected a force feedback-capable axis, it will be listed there. In this menu, you will also see the steering wheel binding you created for steering’ in the previous step click the binding and scroll down to the Force Feedback Configuration section. Enabled tick this checkbox for force feedback to work Inverted in some steering wheels, the forces are inverted. Hop into a vehicle and, while parked, attempt to steer you should feel some resistance. If, instead, your USB wheel attempts to steer all the way to full lock, you probably need to toggle this checkbox. Strength the appropriate value here will depend on how much torque your device is configure to produce. More powerful wheels need smaller values here, and less powerful wheels will need greater values. See Driver Configuration for more info. Smoothing it will remove details for a smoother experience, at the cost of greater lag. If you are noticing high frequency vibrations in your wheel, test progressively greater values. In it’s impossible to fully get rid of all vibrations, so you need to find a balance between smoothness and lag versus the amount of detail you receive. Advanced parameters These are some minor tweaks for your These parameters allow advanced control over the force feedback Reduce strength at low speeds if in doubt, leave this checkbox activated. It will reduce vibrations when the vehicle is parked or rolling very slowly. If you’re into rock-crawling, you might prefer to leave this checkbox deactivated. Side Accel Feedback it attempts to communicate the lateral forces that your body would feel in real life, channeling them through the most common hardware we have the steering wheel. This can lead to unexpected or confusing reactions of the steering wheel such as unrealistic self-centering effects, so it’s a matter of personal preference. Use with caution. Update parameters These parameters should be left alone of the times. However, in some very rare cases, the update parameters might need to be adjusted Update rate limit Limits how often the simulation will attempt to send new force feedback commands to the drivers. Most drivers/firmware/steering wheels cannot handle high update rates, and will behave incorrectly when asked to - often leading to much lower game framerates, and sometimes also to incorrect forces on the wheel. If set to “Automatic”, will do its best to determine the highest safe frequency. This setting can be overriden if the “Automatic” detection is still providing too high update rates and needs lowering even more. Recommended value “Automatic” Update type Allows to choose between two internal methods of sending the force feedback requests. One of them is optimized for speed “Fast” and should be safe to use with almost any steering wheel. The other one, “Full”, may be required for certain steering wheels before FFB can work correctly or at all. This is the case of some direct drive wheels, for example. Recommended value “Fast default" Neither of these two options should be touched if Force Feedback is working correctly already. Basic configuration guide Configuring the wheel can be difficult to get exactly right. Every driving style may need different force feedback settings, so here’s a simplified method to get the basics right Make sure the steering binding is fully linear set its value to 1’, since non-linearity can get in the way of good forcefeedback. Disable all mods, as they can potentially influence or break how FFB works, at least while trying to get a working base line Choose an official vehicle, without mods, with default setup settings, and RWD drivetrain layout such as the ETK K-series Kc6t M. Try to increase your framerate, preferably 60 FPS or more. To achieve that, you can lower the graphics settings. You will have to consider your priorities, as this is a compromise between visual quality and force feedback. Set the Smoothing to the largest value. Go for a drive with your usual driving style racing, stunts, offroad, etc and agressiveness. Tweak the “Strength” until the magnitude of forces you receive feels comfortable while driving even if not detailed at this point. Ignore the forces while the vehicle is stationary or rolling slowly we’ll take care of that later. Check if forces during vehicle crashes are too great or too weak be careful with your wrists and fingers!. If it feels too violent, decrease the strength configuration in Windows drivers see the Windows drivers’ section above, in this document, then come back here and try again. Now start with tweaking the “Smoothing” go for a drive, and gradually decrease the value until the wheel starts any quick rattling or vibration at driving speeds. When rattling starts to appear, dial back the “Smoothing” setting a bit. Now stop the car, and check if the wheel steers on its own from left to right and back again. If that’s the case, enable the “Reduce strength at low speeds” checkbox. This should give you a reasonable starting point for your settings. After that, feel free to play with different parameters to suit your personal preferences. Response correction curves This is an advanced option. Do not touch if you’re not sure of what you are doing. Introduction Force feedback works by asking the steering wheel drivers to apply certain torque certain rotational force through the motors housed inside your steering wheel. In an ideal world, the resulting torques would be proportional to the torques you initially requested. However, in practice, this is rarely the case. Sometimes, when you ask 1 unit of torque, you may get resulting units of torque. And then you ask for 2 units, but get only units back. The result can vary wildly along the range of torques, and is impossible to know without testing each of all the possible torque values. To compensate for this lack of linearity, we provide the option to use a Response Correction Curve. This curve basically tells how the steering wheel will respond to all possible requests. Based on that, will smartly “lie” to the drivers, requesting different torques, to get the actual desired resulting torque. Reusability Before continuing, one word about reusability of response curves The response curve will vary depending on the Windows drivers configuration. For example, if you change the effects strength or any other setting in the Windows driver configuration panel, the response curve will most probably be different afterwards. Keep that in mind if you are trying to use a response curve for your wheel while tweaking the Windows driver configuration. Note bundles response curves tailored to the recommended driver configuration see the 2nd section of this guide. If you are not using the recommended configuration, the response curves may be off, and it is recommended to re-generate it for your specific drivers configuration. But even if you don’t, the result will typically be better than disabling the curve altogether. Also note that the response curve is usually the same for a given brand and model of steering wheel unless it has undergone some serious hardware revision but still keeping the same model identifier. If you create a response curve for certain steering wheel model and drivers configuration, it will most probably be reusable by other owners of your steering wheel. Generating your own response curve Generating a response curve involves precise testing of your hardware, noting down what happens each time you apply certain torques. There are several tools out there that allow to do it in an automated way, and register the resulting curve in a file, on disk. is able to directly read the response curve files generated by the most popular 3rd party tools such as WheelCheck and Force Curve Modifier, without needing any further format modifications. So just run those tools, export the result to a file, and place it at Documents/ Note the numbers contained in LUT files have a different meaning than those contained in the rest of file types even if they are all just’ pairs of numbers. Please do not rename the “.lut” extension to something else, this way will know it needs to handle the LUT numbers differently than is usual. For more information, please search the web for those 3rd party tool names, and follow any of the existing guides out there. Note Hover your mouse over the response curve graph of your FFB menu to get more detailed information about the naming conventions. Typically will do. How the curve is used internally sanitizes the curve you see on screen The curve will be normalized, from 0 no torque to 1 maximum torque supported by your steering wheel. You don’t need to normalize any values yourself. It will remove any valleys, so that the response is always incremental It will assume you start at 0 response for 0 requested torque, and that you end at 100% response for 100% requested torque. After this sanitization has taken place, the curve is used in this way When the resulting torque is too small, will bump up the requested torque, so that it gets its desired resulting torque. When the resulting torque is too big, will request a bit smaller torques, so the result is not that huge. Tweaking the curve You will typically want to tweak the curve just a little bit before it is used by the game. If you have already placed the file in your inputmaps directory, the game will read it each time you restart the game or press Ctrl+L to reload the input system. When that happens, the curve is embedded into your inputmap file. If you modify the source file, and press Ctrl+L, the inputmap file will be updated again. Remove the source file when you are happy with it. Measurement errors If you have only generated the response curve once, it is possible that you have some error in the readings. For example, if you accidentally touched the wheel while it rotated, or bumped into your desk, then that curve point may be incorrect. Repeating the measurement several times, and comparing the resulting curves, allows you to notice any possible outlier values that may have happened. Noise If you correctly measure the curve several times, you will notice slight variations. This can happen because of many circumstances, temperature changes, slight gear or belt positioning differences, etc. Measuring the curve several times not only allows to detect errors as described before but are useful to remove this kind of noise. You can average all of the curves together, and use the resulting curve in Note that there shouldn’t be a huge difference from one run to the next unless your wheel is damaged, so it’s okay if you decide to skip this step - Low torque vibration Most wheels cannot handle low torques correctly. The response curve will usually be very plain in the first section, and this will force to request huge torques to compensate. This usually creates unwanted vibrations. To prevent this, make sure you add a slight initial slope to the curve, even if the response curve clearly showed a huge deadzone in that region. This will smooth out the jerky response for low torque situations. Visualizing the improvements To assist you with tweaking or verifying the response curve, you can visualize the results in real time, while driving. Go to the menu Apps > Add app Place the FFB Graph somewhere on the screen and click Done. The data you are looking for here is Current shows what torque is being actually requested to the Windows drivers. This is usually not the torque we want, but remember we have to lie to the drivers in order to get the torque we want. Uncorrected shows what is the expected resulting torque after having travelled through the drivers, firmware and hardware. In other words, the actually desired torque. Limit is just the force limit the user has selected in the FFB menu. No forces greater than this will be generated. Unlimited shows what would have been requested, if the force limit wasn’t in place. For example, in most steering wheels, you will typically notice that uncorrected forces are smaller than current forces in low-torque situations, because of the initial FFB deadzone. A very good steering wheel should have a very linear FFB response, and so the uncorrected and current forces should be almost the same through the entire range of torques. VolantRace Wheel Pro 2 PS4 Accessoire occasion Playstation 4 . Occasion reconditionnée-- €,--* Occasion garantie 24 mois. Ajouter au panier * prix internet. M’alerter sur la disponibilité du
Home Hardware Image credit Logitech If you're looking to get the most out of your driving games, the best PS4 steering wheels are exactly the way to do it - the DualShock 4 can only get you so far. If you want to feel like you've been plucked straight out of a racing car, you'll want to check out some of the latest peripherals on the market. The best PS4 racing wheels can turn your everyday collection into one packed with true immersion and excellent feedback experience. Some of the top devices pack more features than ever these days, making even the simplest of corners feel realistic. Upgrade your racing controls to a premium PS4 steering wheel, and you’ll be leaning into every corner, feeling the force of the physics and stamping out pedal combinations in no time. Oh, and you'll also more often than not bag yourself one of the best PC controllers, too, given their wheels themselves are precision instruments, designed to keep you teetering on the edge of control but still making it feel like you have what it takes to steal that tenth of a second, and go faster than you ever have before. Tech called force feedback simulates - quite brilliantly, actually - the feeling of rubber fighting the laws of physics, and pedals take braking away from your fingertips and put it somewhere with a bit more muscle memory behind then, are the best PS4 steering wheels on the market. They’re one of the pricier PS4 accessories opens in new tab, but one that’s well worth PS4 steering wheelsThe best PS4 steering wheel overallSpecificationsRotation 900°Buttons 16Pedals 3Adjustable Pedals NoReasons to buy+More affordable than direct competitors+TrueForce feels insane+G Hub Software is brilliantReasons to avoid-TrueForce only compatible with four games-No handbrake input and stick shift not includedLogitech has been in the steering wheel industry for around two decades now and as gaming technology has improved, so has the quality of their wheels. The G923 is a direct successor to both the Xbox-focused G920, and the PS version, the G29. Now we've just got this one device sold in two variants, and boy oh boy is it a best value setup on the marketLogitech G923 reviewSteering wheels are typically aimed at either entry-level players looking to dip their toes in the water of sim racing, or hardcore racers who have been doing this for some time now and the G923 caters for both brilliantly. The G923 also offers perhaps the most immersion you'll get from any wheel on the market thanks to the new TrueForce technology, while still keeping the price point below the upmarket price of £350/$400 is still steep if you're new to the scene, but it's less than its direct competitors and is one of the best when it comes to performance. It's well-built with premium stitching around the leather, looks sleek with your set-up, and is the closest you can get to experience what it's like to actually be behind the wheel of a supercar/F1 car/rally car without leaving the comfort of your desk - or forking out some serious money for a full sim-rig set-up. If you've got the cash, the G923 is a beautiful bit of kit, and a must-have if you don't already own a similar more Logitech G923 steering wheel & pedals review2. HORI Racing Wheel ApexThe best budget PS4 steering wheelSpecificationsRotation 270° maxPedals 2Buttons 16Adjustable pedals YesReasons to buy+Wheels and pedals for fun racing+Wallet-friendly priceReasons to avoid-No force feedback-Restrictive 270° rotation angleHORI has made a name for itself in its fighting game controllers, but it’s branched out into steering wheels too, most notably with this budget-level PS4 and PS3 setup. It’s officially-licensed, too, though you might have to adjust some of the control options both on the wheel and in the games to get the most out of compatibility - this wheel isn’t listed in every game’s steering wheel presets. Still, it’s perfectly serviceable for most are clear entry-level features here, with suction pads for tabletop use though there’s also a clamp too if you have a racing seat and no Force Feedback to enjoy, meaning this wheel is very much entry-level. That said, it’s a good size, and there’s an adjustable rotation angle - you can either set it to 180 degrees of movement for quick direction changes in arcade titles, or you can boost that to 270 degrees of rotation for more serious sims. It’s still far from the realistic rotation angles of other wheels on this list, but the choice is wheel itself is plasticky, but smooth and glossy, with a nice, chunky design. The buttons are fully re-mappable, which means you can set your pit radio or brake bias buttons where you want them for maximum control during the race. It’s also pleasant to see two buttons embedded in the wheel rim itself, allowing you to open DRS or look behind you in any F1 game without moving your thumb from the wheel. Very nice. There’s no clutch pedal and what you get is rather plasticky. However, there is adjustable sensitivity on the pedals and a retractable, tactile footrest to help you keep the unit under your toes. Considering the price, you’re getting a decent wheel, but if you’re serious about your driving games, you will get far more from any of the other wheels on this list.Image credit Thrustmaster3. Thrustmaster T150The cheapest Thrustmaster PS4 steering wheel with force feedbackSpecificationsRotation 1080°Pedals 2Buttons 13Adjustable pedals YesReasons to buy+Reasonably priced+Solid force feedback resistance+Works on PS4, PS3, and PCReasons to avoid-All-plastic buildHesitant to spend a lot on a PS4 steering wheel but still want to give yourself a racing wheel experience that provides everything you need at a decent standard? Then the Thrustmaster T150 is a fantastic force feedback here might not be as refined as the T300 we've highlighted a bit further down the page, but the money you save more than makes up for it. There's still a pleasing amount of pull on the corners pedals and wheel are all-plastic, which is one of the other compromises over more expensive PS4 steering wheels that often favor metal elements. That being said, everything feels remarkably robust. There are cheaper wheels out there that will work fine on your PS4, but you start to notice the drop in quality pretty soon on those models with a more lightweight feel, no force feedback, and more limited Logitech G29 Driving Force Racing WheelAn older version of the best PS4 steering wheel - great for discountsSpecificationsRotation 900°Pedals 3Buttons 16Adjustable pedals NoReasons to buy+High quality force feedback motor+Comes with three excellent pedals+Compatible with PS4, PS3 and PC+Bargainous priceReasons to avoid-Not quite as luxury as the Fanatec modelLogitech has a long history of great PlayStation wheels, dating back to the days of Gran Turismo 3. The current version offers Force Feedback, three pedals and compatibility with both PS4 and PS3 as well as PC.Strong Force Feedback comes from a compact servo with a built-in clamp, allowing you to get set up and racing on any desk very quickly. The wheel rim isn’t interchangeable, but you can add a manual stick shift to it later if you prefer. Since you can’t take the wheel off, it needs to be a good one, and thankfully it is. Control is super-smooth and the plush-feeling finish combines with good button placement and an integrated clicker wheel to give you the feeling that you have complete control over your vehicle. The stainless steel paddle shifters are well-positioned too - it’s a solid-feeling unit with everything within easy reach. Resistance isn’t a strong point of this pedal set, but considering the Xbox equivalent has issues with too much resistance, that’s probably a better way to be. You do get three pedals, though, so you can drop the clutch on the start line, which is a big advantage if you like your racing on the serious side. The pedal base isn’t particularly large, which gives it a very slight toy’ feeling, but given the price, you’re getting a full pedal set included with a superb wheel, so there’s not much reason to complain. Read more Should I buy the Logitech G29?Image credit Thrustmaster5. Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari GTE Official Force Feedback wheelThe best PS4 steering wheel for force feedbackSpecificationsRotation 1080°Pedals 2Buttons 12Adjustable pedals YesReasons to buy+Excellent force feedback that feels real+PS3 compatibleReasons to avoid-You might need to upgrade to better pedals-Undercut by Logitech in priceThrustmaster has a wealth of options but the T300 is the gold standard for mid-tier Force Feedback wheels on PS4, but it is significantly more expensive at present than Logitech’s similarly-specced bundle. Still, this unit is highly recommended, as the feeling of driving with this wheel in an all-out sim like Assetto Corsa is simply sublime precise, immersive control that makes you feel like you’re actually in the car as you hurtle around Silverstone. The fundamental quality of the Force Feedback motor is excellent, with strong forces pushing and pulling at you as you turn thanks to the brushless motor inside. This allows you to feel the car’s adhesion with the surface of the road as the steering goes light in your hands when you’re understeering. It’s also compatible with PS3 which is excellent if you fancy dipping back into the likes of Sega Rally or OutRun Online HD. This is an officially-licensed wheel, too, which means the chances of it being compatible with your favourite game is much higher than cheaper models. Buy with is a lovely, solid racing wheel that feels smooth as you turn it. The T300 base is modular, too, which means you can switch out rims if you decide you want to upgrade further down the line. As for this one, it features Ferrari branding, a toggle switch for whichever car setting you decide to assign it to maybe brake bias? That would be cool and a nice red indicator stripe so you can see when the wheel is centered in games like Dirt Rally. However, there’s no dedicated clutch paddle or pedal or handbrake included, so you’ll need to use one of the face buttons if you need those, which isn’t ideal. While this isn’t the best Thrustmaster pedals set we prefer the T3PA pedal set, sold separately, as you only get accelerator and brake pedals out of the box, it’s a perfectly functional set with precise control over your inputs, meaning less wheelspin and more controlled braking. The base plate is large enough to rest your feet on, which makes it less likely to move if it’s unsecured. And if you want better pedals, you don’t need to buy an entirely new bundle. So while this starter pack contains everything you need to get racing in a serious way, if you find yourself wanting more, you can pick and mix down the line. best PS4 wheel for serious racersSpecificationsRotation 1080°Pedals 2Buttons 15Adjustable pedals YesReasons to buy+Incredible force feedback engine+Feels like driving a real car+Customisable to the extremeReasons to avoid-Costs more than your entire PS4Yes, the price is higher than the console you’re playing on, but on the balance of price vs quality, this is undoubtedly the absolute best racing wheel on PS4. While not the top-of-the-range entry in Fanatec’s catalogue, the quality of this wheel and pedals set is far, far superior to the next entry on the list, and arguably feels better to use than the ultra-deluxe ClubSport pack thanks to superb pedals and a formidable force feedback motor, which is why we’ve chosen it over its bigger simply won’t believe how strong the Force Feedback motor is in this wheelbase. In an F1 game, pick a classic Williams and go for a drive around the bumpy streets of Monaco, and you’ll literally be wrestling with the wheel as it judders around, trying to shake itself free of the straight line you’re attempting to drive. It’s simply magnificent, and so solid you’ll really feel like there is a real car connected to the wheel in your hands. Having an integrated rev bar lighting up as you play is also really cool, as long as the game you’re playing supports it, of course. It also comes with a clamp so you can secure it to a desk or racing seat without bolting it down, which will be useful for those who don’t want a permanent setup in their living room. While the fundamental quality of this wheel can’t be knocked, this standard rim can be removed and upgraded later if you fancy something a bit more exotic than a plain, circular, slightly undersized wheel. The shifter paddles have been designed to click in a satisfying way, and they’re centred for racing style steering wheel grip. There’s also a built-in screen at the top of the wheel, which can be used to tinker with your wheel’s calibration parameters, or used for telemetry data in compatible games. This is Fanatec’s lower-spec pedal set, and this bundle doesn’t come with a clutch pedal, so if you’re serious about manual gears, you should consider either the ClubSport pedals or upgrading the existing brake pedal to a Loadcell version, and using the old brake pedal as a clutch instead. The metal housing allows you to move pedals as you see fit, adding comfort and flexibility to an already formidable setup. However, the basic pedals themselves are a joy to use regardless, with superb resistance under your braking foot, and smooth, controllable throttle input. Wheelspin and locked brakes will soon be a thing of the past. Some may actually prefer these pedals to the more expensive ones. We more Fanatec CSL Elite Starter Kit for PS4 and PC reviewIs a steering wheel for PS4 worth it?If you're looking for a higher level of immersion when playing games then a steering wheel is the way to go. Regardless of if you're a hardcore racer or just looking to start off your journey then a steering wheel can still be beneficial. There are many different options for steering wheels, with many budget options if you're not sure. Is Thrustmaster or Logitech better?In all our testing, we've found that that the best steering wheel for Playstation is the Logitech G923. It is amazing quality and still comes at a lower price point that its competitors on the market. However, Thrustmaster offers some more budget friendly options overall. Both brands offer something called Force Feedback - where you can feel the car fighting back against you - leading to a much more immersive experience. However, Logitech's steering wheels force feedback are not fully compatible with all games but tend to be much more intense and realistic. Overall, whichever brand you go for is entirely dependant on what you are looking for in a wheel and how much you are willing to spend. Logitech wheels typically cost around $300 - $400 where as you can find a nice budget Thrustmaster option for around $200. You are sacrificing some of the more high-end features with a cheaper brand, but if you're up against a budget this is where we'd recommend starting your gaming steering wheel is best?In our opinion we believe that the Logitech G923 steering wheel & pedals is the best steering wheel full set up for PS4. You can find the best budget option for a steering wheel for PS4 is the RWA Racing Wheel Apex from HORI. Our third best option which is just a well rounded, solid steering wheel is the Logitech G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel. If you need something for another platform then check out the best Xbox steering wheels and the best racing wheels for PC. I'm the Commissioning Editor for Hardware at GamesRadar+ and have been here since late 2018. I'm also a writer on games and have had work published over the last five years or so at the likes of Eurogamer, RPS, PCGN, and more. Day to day, I take care of a whole host of gaming tech reviews, buying guides, and news and deals content that pops up across GamesRadar+. I'm also a qualified landscape and garden designer, so I do that in my spare time. I'm also an expert on the virtual landscapes and environments of games and love to write about them too, including in an upcoming book on the topic!
VolantRace Wheel Pro 2. Prix de reprise conseill é Accès PRO Je me connecte - 25 %. Prix de vente occasion * 46,30 € * Dernière cotation. Descriptif du jeu. Plate-forme : Playstation 4 :
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Ifyou’re using a wheel-and-pedal set, or any other device on your PS4, Xbox One, or PC, and you’d like to check for compatibility, please take a look below to see if your device is amongst those that are compatible with Project CARS 2. If your device is not listed and you’re experiencing issues with getting it to work with Project CARS 2, please visit us on our forums
Skip to content Technical support website Sign In Racing Wheels Joysticks Gamepads Gaming Headsets Product number 2969078 2960634 ManualUser manual - Nascar Force Feedback 2 - EN/FRPCEnglishView moreView lessUser manual - Nascar Force Feedback 2 - ES/PTPCEspañol Drivers Unified Drivers Package - PC Windows 10 - Windows 7 - Windows 8 Release notes Windows 10 - Windows 7 - Windows 8 Games settings•Need For Speed - Wheel settings PC•Sega Rally - Setup for Racing Wheels PCFAQ•During installation, Windows asks me for the Windows 98 CD-ROM. PC•How can I know if the Thrustmapper software is properly installed on my computer? PC•How do I know if my Thrustmaster Force feedback game controller is installed properly? PC•How I can separate the pedals axis to configure the wheel in 3-axis mode? PC•I find that my wheel is not precise enough or overly sensitive in certain games. What should I do? PC•I get the following error message when I insert my installation CD 16-bit MS-DOS Subsystem PC•I have a Mac and would like to know whether my USB peripheral is compatible with my computer. PC•I installed the drivers for my Thrustmaster Force Feedback game controller, and even though the controls are working properly, I cannot get any effect in my games. What is wrong? PC•My Thrustmaster USB accessory isn't recognized in the Gaming Options or Game Controllers section of the Control Panel, or in games. What should I do? PC Contact us for this product
BebuGirolami and Esteban Guerrieri dominate Race 1 at Pau Congratulations to our Global Ambassadors for the incredible results of the last weekend! Bebu and Esteban get the 1st and 2nd place in Race 1 at Circuit de Pau-Ville! RACE HARD! A comment from Bebu Girolami, 1st place: “I think we took all the points available . Read More » May 9, 2022 No Comments Patch

Pack volant race wheel pro 2 avec levier de vitesse + pédalier pour ps4 / ps3 / xbox one / switch / pc Le Race Wheel Pro 2 de Spirit of Gamer vous donnera la possibilité de montrer vos talents de pilote sur PS4, PS3, Xbox One ou PC ! Cet ensemble se compose d'un volant avec levier de vitesse et d'un pédalier double à ressort pour une expérience de con En vente sur Marque SPIRIT OF GAMER Prix conseillé 89€89 > Xbox

LeRace Wheel Pro 2 de Spirit of Gamer vous donnera la possibilité de montrer vos talents de pilote sur PS4, PS3, Xbox One ou PC ! Cet ensemble se compose d'un volant avec levier de vitesse et d'un pédalier double à ressort pour une expérience de conduite réaliste et A top quality direct drive sim racing wheel, such as the VRS DirectForce Pro, is very responsive, powerful, and fun to drive. Out of the box, the default settings will give you great feeling force feedback FFB, but for the best experience it is important to use the wheel tool to configure your VRS DirectForce Pro to your specific game, car, and preferences. We’ll cover the main things to adjust using iRacing as the example platform, but these points will be relevant in every sim racing game. Before getting into the in-game settings, make sure you have the VRS Wheel Tool installed, available here. General In-Game Settings Ideally, for a given race car, everyone with a VRS DirectForce Pro should run the same in-game settings and do their preference adjustments in the Wheel Tool. In-sim force feedback strength is the main thing to focus on and tune within the iRacing settings, and we’ll explain this later. For iRacing settings, if you see a “Strength” label instead of a “Max force” label under Options -> Force Feedback, click on the label and it will change to “Max Force” measured in Nm. We will ideally change that setting for each car explained in the next section. “Wheel Force” should be set to 20Nm, though not consequential as that’s only used by iRacing’s FFB auto-adjustment feature, which you won’t need if you use our recommended “Max Force” settings. You can play with damping if you’d like, but we recommend using the Wheel Tool damping, so iRacing damping should generally be set to 0%. Min Force absolutely should be set to 0% though. Check “Enable Force Feedback”, “Use linear mode”, and “Reduce force when parked”. Force Feedback Strength First, we need to explain FFB clipping. In iRacing, hit F by default to bring up telemetry of your force feedback. Here we can see the F bar, showing the current FFB output to the VRS DirectForce Pro Wheel Base controller. The “clipping point” is when the F bar turns red and is maxed out, which means the force feedback can’t go any higher. Clipping is undesirable under normal driving conditions, so you need a high enough clipping point. However, setting the clip point too high results in a weaker overall FFB strength. There are two main ways to adjust raw force feedback strength. The first is with the VRS wheel tool, and the second is through the in-game settings. Going over the wheel tool first, the Max Force slider will determine the maximum torque the motor will output. This is useful to adjust because most FFB forces are well below the maximum output of the game and motor. We are suggesting two different ways to adjust your force feedback strength per car Option 1 “Set and forget” the Wheel Tool Max Force, and adjust the in-game Max Force for each car. We recommend you start with the default of 50% Max Force in the Wheel Tool until you get used to the wheel. Most of our testers and even pro sim racers use 40% to 60% max force. From there, you can adjust in-game force to your liking, but make sure the F bar doesn’t reach the clipping point doesn’t get red under grippy driving conditions. This method has the advantage of not having to save and reload profiles for each car in the VRS Wheel Tool, and it will work just fine, however there are two potential drawbacks, especially at Wheel Tool Max Forces above 50% Crashes and heavy curb hits could be very strong, and the overall FFB resolution could be slightly reduced over the operating range. If you want to find the optimal “clipping point” and maximize the effective resolution of the FFB signal from the sim, consider the second option. Option 2 Find the optimal in-sim max force for each car, then adjust the Wheel Tool max force for each car to your preference. Hit F to bring up the F bar in iRacing. We want to adjust the in-game Max Force so that the F bar only clips yellow or red over the heaviest curb hits and during wall impacts, but stays green hanging around 40-70% force during normal cornering. To more precisely calibrate the FFB Max Force for a car, you should be doing laps in the most grippy conditions possible cool track temperatures, high track rubber, and non-worn tires. You should also pick a track that loads up the tires well with high speed essess, heavy braking zones and some jarring curbs. Combined with the grippy weather and track conditions, you’ll get an extreme case of FFB workload. If you have a Competitive VRS subscription, analyzing a lap of telemetry in the “advanced mode” on the FFB tab will tell you exactly the in-game setting you should select in Nm. The guidance is to configure the sim to only clip 2% of the samples from the high end of the force in the extreme grip lap test. Here are a few example iRacing Max Force settings we’ve tested for as of June 2020. Remember you can click “Max Force” in the iRacing options to change to a Nm readout. Please note that car setup, steering ratio, track grip, and iRacing physics updates can change the best setting for each car, so only use these as a starting point/reference Mazda MX5 14 Nm Porsche 911 GT3 Cup 991 20 Nm McLaren MP4-12C GT3 24 Nm Ferrari 488 GT3 30 Nm BMW Z4 GT3 21 Nm Mercedes AMG GT3 31 Nm Ferrari 488 GTE 33 Nm Porsche 911 RSR 26 Nm BMW M8 GTE 47 Nm Formula Renault 33 Nm Formula Renault 19 Nm Dallara F3 32 Nm NASCAR Cup 26 Nm NASCAR Xfinity 27 Nm NASCAR Truck 21 Nm If you drive multiple cars, you should check “use custom controls for this car” to adjust each car individually. From there, it’s as simple as finding the overall wheel strength you like, and tune to that with the Max Force slider in the Wheel Tool. Generally, most of our testers liked 40% to 60% max force if they followed the above process for setting proper in-game FFB. The max force you end up choosing is completely up to you! Try to start weaker and slowly build up as you feel more comfortable with the direct drive forces. Keep in mind that the motor is very strong, so take it slow to avoid injuring yourself! Eventually you’ll find a point that “feels right” by being strong enough that you feel every detail you need, without overpowering your grip or overly tiring your arms after a long stint. There are benefits of running a lot of force. As an example, the self-aligning torque of the wheels helps you catch oversteer without you doing much. The more force you run, the more this effect is pronounced. However, this does not mean you should run as much as possible at all times. You should be comfortable with the setting – your arms should not hurt while driving and you shouldn’t run forces that could impose risks on your health. If the maximum you can take ends up being only 10Nm 50% instead of 20Nm 100% that is fine, it won’t mean you’re not taking advantage of your DD wheel. Once you have your settings for each car and are happy with the overall force, set it and forget it! Generally you shouldn’t adjust for different tracks or for different weather conditions for a given car, because you want to be able to feel the differences in grip level of the track surface. Our World Championship VRS Coaches use this mindset, and say it only takes one trip through Turn 1 of any track to know exactly how much grip the track and tire has, allowing them to push all-out at the start of every stint. Wheel Tool Settings and Filters There are a few settings with sliders in the Wheel Tool which you can adjust to achieve the “feel” in the wheel that you want. The Wheel Tool comes preloaded with a default configuration that should feel great, but you may want to play with the settings to find what you like best. Any time you make a change, make sure to hit “Save Settings” to apply and persist the changes. Calibrate the center of the wheel by turning your steering wheel until it’s perfectly centered and click “Center”. Degrees of rotation are up to your preference, but most sim racers use the standard 900 degrees, which is a full turn and a quarter to the left and right. The wheel has “end stops” that will resist wheel movement past the maximum degrees of rotation. Smoothing takes the “raw” FFB signal that the sim sends to the controller, and filters it to make it smoother. Otherwise, the FFB can feel “notchy”, especially with iRacing’s 60hz refresh rate. To feel the raw signal, try 0 smoothing most people don’t like this. The motor can achieve the command from the sim within 1-2ms but a new command is issued once every 16ms at 60Hz update rate. Without additional filtering/smoothing, you’d feel the steps the motor makes every 16ms. More smoothing means less “notchiness”, but with the downside of a delay when the full force feedback command from the sim is achieved. Some people like the more notchy response because the wheel feels more “alive”, while others prefer the smoother feel, which is closer to what real cars feel like. Generally try to run the lowest Smoothing value you can without feeling too much notchiness. Most Pro sim racers prefer 1 or 2 smoothing on iRacing. Damper, Friction, Inertia, Spring have an associated drop-down menu, which allows you to select if you want the device to configure the listed effects, the game, or a combination of both. Most of the time you’d probably want to stick to Device Effect Only. Damping is a force that acts against the current rotation of the wheel, and is stronger for quicker rotation. Damping is used mostly to reduce oscillations from the game’s FFB. The downside to high damping that the will becomes less responsive to driver inputs and to sim commands. Lower damping is generally recommended, but a small amount is good for reducing oscillations. Our pro drivers prefer 10% to 20% damping. Friction and inertia will be implemented at a later date. Spring is a force acting to center the wheel. It’s a linear spring, so you’ll experience more centering force the further the wheel is turned. Generally we don’t recommend using this setting in iRacing leave it at 0, but it may is useful in other games or for racers who prefer weak FFB. Non-linearity is a FFB technique used with lower-end wheels. Weak FFB forces from the game are amplified, and strong forces are a bit “compressed” to allow you to feel some more FFB detail on the weak-end without clipping on the strong-end. We’ve included non-linearity as an option on our system to accommodate users who would prefer soft FFB less than 50% Max Force without losing out on the small FFB details. It’s also an option to try for racing games which seem to be lacking detail on the low end. Generally for most sim racing titles, set non-linearity to 0 completely linear. Higher values will amplify low-end forces more. Saving/Loading Settings and Profiles The Wheel Tool allows you to easily save and load your settings to the firmware, as well as save profiles for different cars or games to reload later. To save your current settings, hit “Save Settings”. If you made changes to the sliders without saving but want to return to the last loaded settings configuration, hit “Reload Settings”. Factory Default will return the settings to what they were when you bought the wheel base. You can hit “Add Profile” to create a new profile with the currently selected settings. Use the dropdown menu to select another profile. Hit “Save Settings” to apply the settings to the wheel. Loading Firmware If you need to load new firmware or reload an old one, hit “Enter Bootloader”, then open the firmware file. The device will restart back into the main firmware after a firmware update. Other Settings The Encoder and Debug tabs are for developer use only and can be ignored. . 684 691 584 440 359 581 368 30

configurer volant race wheel pro 2 ps4